Ondine’s Published Articles

Finding Gems on the Tuscan Coast (The New York Times)

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  At dusk I jogged along a sandy road in a secluded nature reserve outside Bolgheri in western Tuscany. A family of bristly boars came charging out of the underbrush with their tails upright and momentarily froze with a wary glare before rambling away. I saw a couple of deer grazing behind dappled trees alongside …

Surfing and Serenity on a Remote Philippine Island (The New York Times)

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We sat facing a weathered wood pagoda set in an emerald sea, the perfect swimming distance from a private beach lined with crooked coconut trees. Grilled mahi-mahi that arrived via a banca, a Filipino fishing boat, just an hour earlier was seasoned with calamansi (a citrus fruit native to the Philippines) and served with grilled …

Surfing and Serenity on a Remote Philippine Island (The New York Times)

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We sat facing a weathered wood pagoda set in an emerald sea, the perfect swimming distance from a private beach lined with crooked coconut trees. Grilled mahi-mahi that arrived via a banca, a Filipino fishing boat, just an hour earlier was seasoned with calamansi (a citrus fruit native to the Philippines) and served with grilled …

36 Hours in Verona, Italy (The New York Times)

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Compact and easy to navigate, Verona remains one of Italy’s most underrated cities despite its picturesque center of cobblestone streets lined with medieval pink-hued buildings, well-preserved Roman sites and dozens of churches. A short hop from major hubs like Milan and Venice, the former Roman settlement never feels overrun by tourists, although visitors descend on …

Red Hot In Rio (7×7 Magazine)

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With the 2104 World Cup and the 2016 Olympics looming, Rio de Janeiro is poised to become Brazil’s cultural Mecca, proving that there is more to this city than sand and sex appeal… 7x7_READ FULL STORY

THE NEW MEDITERRANEAN: VERNAZZA, ITALY (Architectual Digest)

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  The ancient Cinque Terre gem rebuilds gracefully When massive landslides hit Italy’s Ligurian coast 18 months ago, damage to the medieval town of Vernazza was devastating, its stone streets, centuries-old landmarks, and picturesque waterfront left buried in mud. But in the disaster’s aftermath, this jewel of the Cinque Terre—a group of five villages designated …

THE NEW MEDITERRANEAN: VERNAZZA, ITALY (Architectual Digest)

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  The ancient Cinque Terre gem rebuilds gracefully When massive landslides hit Italy’s Ligurian coast 18 months ago, damage to the medieval town of Vernazza was devastating, its stone streets, centuries-old landmarks, and picturesque waterfront left buried in mud. But in the disaster’s aftermath, this jewel of the Cinque Terre—a group of five villages designated …

Italian For Beginners: The Story Of La Bandita (Marie Claire)

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What happens when you leave big-city life to open a hotel in a picture-postcard village in Tuscany? You open another one. 2000, we were a typical New York media couple. I worked as a travel editor, always on the hunt for the next hot destination, while my future husband, John, a record label executive, chased …

A New Crop of Hotels in South America’s Wine Countries (Conde Nast Traveler)

For more than a decade, South American winemakers have been striving to put their bottles on a par with those from Napa or France. As we all know, they’ve made great strides—Argentinean wines climbed Wine Spectator’s Top 100 lists in recent years—so what more do they require? New hotels. READ FULL STORY AND ALL MY PICKS

Insider’s Guide to Corsica (Conde Nast Traveler)

Don’t mention France. Corsica’s citizens don’t think much of being part of its domain, and after you visit this “mountain in the sea,” you may well understand why. From its culture to its cuisine to its wild white sand beaches and formidable interior, Corsica feels a world apart. Endowed with quiet fishing villages, a clear Caribbean-like …