Ondine’s Published Articles

Surfing and Serenity on a Remote Philippine Island (The New York Times)

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We sat facing a weathered wood pagoda set in an emerald sea, the perfect swimming distance from a private beach lined with crooked coconut trees. Grilled mahi-mahi that arrived via a banca, a Filipino fishing boat, just an hour earlier was seasoned with calamansi (a citrus fruit native to the Philippines) and served with grilled …

36 Hours in Verona, Italy (The New York Times)

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Compact and easy to navigate, Verona remains one of Italy’s most underrated cities despite its picturesque center of cobblestone streets lined with medieval pink-hued buildings, well-preserved Roman sites and dozens of churches. A short hop from major hubs like Milan and Venice, the former Roman settlement never feels overrun by tourists, although visitors descend on …

Red Hot In Rio (7×7 Magazine)

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With the 2104 World Cup and the 2016 Olympics looming, Rio de Janeiro is poised to become Brazil’s cultural Mecca, proving that there is more to this city than sand and sex appeal… 7x7_READ FULL STORY

THE NEW MEDITERRANEAN: VERNAZZA, ITALY (Architectual Digest)

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  The ancient Cinque Terre gem rebuilds gracefully When massive landslides hit Italy’s Ligurian coast 18 months ago, damage to the medieval town of Vernazza was devastating, its stone streets, centuries-old landmarks, and picturesque waterfront left buried in mud. But in the disaster’s aftermath, this jewel of the Cinque Terre—a group of five villages designated …

THE NEW MEDITERRANEAN: VERNAZZA, ITALY (Architectual Digest)

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  The ancient Cinque Terre gem rebuilds gracefully When massive landslides hit Italy’s Ligurian coast 18 months ago, damage to the medieval town of Vernazza was devastating, its stone streets, centuries-old landmarks, and picturesque waterfront left buried in mud. But in the disaster’s aftermath, this jewel of the Cinque Terre—a group of five villages designated …

Italian For Beginners: The Story Of La Bandita (Marie Claire)

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What happens when you leave big-city life to open a hotel in a picture-postcard village in Tuscany? You open another one. 2000, we were a typical New York media couple. I worked as a travel editor, always on the hunt for the next hot destination, while my future husband, John, a record label executive, chased …

Eating Among Locals on a Venetian Island, (NY Times)

If beautiful Murano glass is a strong draw to the Venetian Lagoon island, camera-snapping groups clogging the canals, and the cookie-cutter restaurants hoping to sell them a pizza along the way, can have the opposite effect. But thanks to a culinary newcomer, there’s a reason to return.   READ FULL REVIEW OF ACQUASTANCA

Globetrotter Column for Brazil Vogue

Chilean Patagonia’s Peaks, Up Close (NY Times)

AFTER four hours of strenuous hiking, we had only just reached the bottom of the Torres del Paine. You can see the three granite monoliths from seemingly a hundred miles away (and on just about every postcard of Patagonia), but the full magnitude of their facades was revealed only after the last turn on the …

Drawn to the Magnet of Chile’s Surf Coast (NY Times)

I FOUND Pichilemu through a local’s tip. In planning an itinerary that would start in Santiago and end a couple of hours south in the wine country, I was looking for a low-key weekend spot near the two destinations where I could stop for a few days and recharge with my family. “Well, there is …