Ondine’s Published Articles

In Norway, the Journey Is the Destination (The New York Times)

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A writer finds emotional solace on some of Norway’s scenic remote roads, which have been transformed into architectural wonders. I was driving up a remote road in central Norway. To be more accurate, it was actually more like I was playing an advanced level video game. Eleven switchbacks were cut into the sheer mountainside, and …

The Innkeeper’s Diaries (Journey)

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When Ondine Cohane and her husband opened a hotel in the Tuscan countryside, everyone said they were living the dream—only it wasn’t really hers My husband and I are dressed for a photo shoot: he in a crisp linen shirt and jacket, me in a pink Michael Kors shift. His face is tanned from summer …

The Aeolian Islands: Beautiful Italian Countryside, Few Tourists (Conde Nast Traveler)

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There is a small cluster of islands off the coast of Sicily with no throngs of tourists, no teeming crowds, no traffic jams. Instead, what you find is Italy at its dreamiest, picturesque best: acres of olive trees and grapevines; small, just-right hotels; and crystalline waters made for long, lazy swims. Ondine Cohane uncovers the …

Eat, Stay, Buy Locally: Treading Lightly on the Road (The New York Times)

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Between the intricate shrines of Angkor Wat, the diverse landscapes of the countryside and the kindness of its people — and despite the horrors of its recent history — Cambodia knocks a lot of people off their feet. It certainly had that effect on me when I first visited a few years ago and then …

Following Dylan Thomas in Wales (The New York Times)

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  Climbing along a steep coastal path through a forest in southern Wales, with russet red and tawny brown autumn leaves crunching beneath my feet, I reached a crest where the trailhead looked back onto a long estuary lined with salt flats. The River Taf ran through the headlands before me, its glacier-cut course unmistakable …

Everything’s Funky in the Philippines (Conde Nast Traveler)

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In Bangkok, Chefs Look Beyond Thailand (The New York Times)

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Bangkok’s renowned local food scene established the city long ago as one of the most exciting, well-priced and diverse culinary capitals in Southeast Asia. These days some heavyweight chefs, both foreign and homegrown, have gone from showcasing a more highbrow take on Thai classics to looking at other, more far-flung menus for inspiration. (Bangkok’s Gaggan …

Finding Gems on the Tuscan Coast (The New York Times)

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  At dusk I jogged along a sandy road in a secluded nature reserve outside Bolgheri in western Tuscany. A family of bristly boars came charging out of the underbrush with their tails upright and momentarily froze with a wary glare before rambling away. I saw a couple of deer grazing behind dappled trees alongside …

Surfing and Serenity on a Remote Philippine Island (The New York Times)

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We sat facing a weathered wood pagoda set in an emerald sea, the perfect swimming distance from a private beach lined with crooked coconut trees. Grilled mahi-mahi that arrived via a banca, a Filipino fishing boat, just an hour earlier was seasoned with calamansi (a citrus fruit native to the Philippines) and served with grilled …

Surfing and Serenity on a Remote Philippine Island (The New York Times)

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We sat facing a weathered wood pagoda set in an emerald sea, the perfect swimming distance from a private beach lined with crooked coconut trees. Grilled mahi-mahi that arrived via a banca, a Filipino fishing boat, just an hour earlier was seasoned with calamansi (a citrus fruit native to the Philippines) and served with grilled …