7 a.m. Begin at one of the area’s—if not the country’s—best breaks: San Pedrito has the big waves and reef bed that make it the stuff of local legend. First thing in the morning, it’s easy to claim a massive roller of your own, if you’re ready—the rocky bottom and tricky currents mean it’s risky for total newbies. You can rent a board or book a lesson at Costa Azul, in downtown Todos Santos (board rentals, $20 a day).
9 a.m. Refuel with strong coffee and carbs—croissants, muffins, creamily frosted carrot cake—at Baja Beans, filled with boarders discussing their morning sessions. Afterward, take your jeep to five-mile-long Los Cerritos, a beach that draws amateurs and pros. The waves here are a good mix: There are beach breaks, and a right point break farther out when the swell is right.
Noon You won’t find any decent waves in the middle of the day, so explore Todos Santos, a dusty little town filled with galleries, cafés, and boutiques. Buy tribal-printed dresses and Basquiat-inspired sarongs at Mixtica (Calle Legaspi; 52-1-624-141-6881). Then prepare for perfect tacos at the simple stand George’s, on the road out of town. Filled with just-caught whitefish or shrimp, guacamole, salsa, and shredded cabbage, they cost about a buck. For a sit-down Italian meal, Café Santa Feserves carpaccio and pasta with lobster—with siesta-worthy margaritas (Calle Centenario 4; 52-612-145-0340; entrées from $14).
3 p.m. Surfers keep the best breaks close to their chest, so one of the only ways to unlock the area’s secrets is to head out with a local pro. Mario Becerril, who has surfed here for more than a decade, will take you to breaks that are still off the map. In an afternoon session, you might be lucky enough to see a whale calf frolicking with its mother (full-day expeditions from $120).
6 p.m. Time for a stiff margarita at La Esquina, where surfers and locals converge for happy hour under a screen showing pro-surf videos—the perfect inspiration.
The place to stay is Rancho Pescadero, a newish beachfront spot that offers everything from three-day workshops ($300) to boards you can borrow for free (doubles from $200).